Vrijdag 28 januari
Betogingen begon al gespannen met zeer veel traangas. Maar betogers zijn vast besloten door te gaan. Aanvankelijk is het een vreedzaam protest; demonstranten zitten voor politie barrière; delen bloemen uit. Een politieman stopt zijn traangas geweer weg, zet helm af en baret op: gejuich onder de demonstranten. Toch begint politie te schieten. Het traangas maakt me misselijk. Mensen bieden me ui en doekje azijn aan, iedereen helpt elkaar. Omwonenden gooien flessen water naar beneden. Dan volgen rubber kogels. De betogers zijn woedend en hebben nu nog maar een doel: de politie verslaan! Dat lukt rond 18 uur als de politie af druipt en het Tahrir plein verlaat. Ik moet trappenhuis in vluchten om traangas te ontvluchten. Het leger neemt het nu over: antwoord op vraag van betogers: “nee, wij zijn hier om jullie te beschermen”. Mensen hebben respect voor leger. Inmiddels staat het kantoor van de NDP in brand. Even na middernacht is er TV boodschap (gezien in lokaal koffiehuis) van Mubarak. Er komt een nieuwe regering, allerlei (loze) beloften worden gedaan. De betogers zijn teleurgesteld en nog bozer. Men trekt naar ministerie van informatie (Egypt Press Center). Obama’s reactie op TV wordt met boegeroep ontvangen. Hij keert zich niet tegen Mubarak. “Mubarak rot op” scanderen de betogers.
Wanneer is na een lange wandeling thuis kom in Maadi schieten politiemensen met scherp. Ik weet me nog maar net in veiligheid te brengen. Die nacht vallen er 4 doden vrijdag; waaronder meisje van 13!
Zaterdag 29 januari
Vanaf 10 uur is weer mobile telefoon verkeer mogelijk. Demonstranten zijn alweer in centrum. Iedereen is benieuwd wat leger zal gaan doen. De eerste traangasgranaten worden afgeschoten. En er wordt ook met geweren geschoten (te horen aan knallen).
De volkswoede is groot. 40% van de mensen leeft onder de armoede grens, dat betekent van $ 2.00 per dag. Dat tegenover de zgn.’ fat-cats’ (de volgevreten) rijke. Maar het is vooral opstand tegen ‘farao Mubarak. Hij ‘kreeg’ baan, hij werd niet gekozen. En kan baan niet zomaar over doen aan zijn zoon Gamal.
Intussen vraagt de presentatrice van CNN zich af: “How do WE stop the spread of violence in the region?” Bestaat er in Amerika ook een woord voor ‘bescheidenheid’?
Begin van de avond benoemt Mubarak Omar Soleiman, voormalig spy-chief en technocraat tot Vice President. Hij is sinds 1995 verantwoordelijk voor veel onderdrukking en geweld. Aghad Shaftiq wordt Minister President. Maar volgens de betogers is het “to little, to late” (te weinig, te laat).
Oogst van de dag: 60 gewonden door plastic kogels en een scherpschutters op het dak van Ministerie van Binnenlandse Zaken schiet een betoger dood.
Burgerverdediging in de straten tegen plunderingen, toch voel ik me voor het eerst onprettig. Het is moeilijk om in contact te komen met het thuisfront. Er zijn gevechten op de hoek van mijn straat.
Egyptische Minister van BuZa Egypte zit gewoon conferentie Afrikaanse ministers Buitenlandse Zaken. Hoe kan zoiets?
Zondag 30 januari
Hele dag thuis gezeten. Moeilijk om aan te geven of er nog genoeg eten voorradig zal zijn de komende dagen. De schappen raken al behoorlijk leeg. Het nieuws gevolgd via TV en regelmatig contact met collega journalisten in Cairo.
Om vier uur begint uitgaansverbod. Over de demonstranten op Tahrir plein scheren twee F 16’s laag over. Ik kan ze hier vanuit Maadi ook zien en horen, wanneer ze hier een ruime bocht vliegen terug naar het centrum van de stad. Op aanraden van mijn buurtbewoners blijf ik veilig binnen.
Contact gehad met Nederlandse Ambassade over eventuele terugkeer naar Nederland. Maar men geeft mij alleen te telefoonnummers door van KLM kantoren in Cairo en Amsterdam. Bovendien is het vrijwel onmogelijk op het vliegveld te komen. Wacht dus maar gelaten af wat de komende dagen gaan brengen.
ElBaradei verschijnt op het Tahrir plein en spreekt de menigte toe. Maar weinigen kunnen hem horen. Er wordt gemeld dat de verzamelde oppositiepartijen hem enig mandaat hebben gegeven. Inclusief de Muslim Brotherhood.
Niet lang na zonsondergang rijden enkele pantser voortuigen van het leger luid schietend door de straat achter mijn straat. Ik zie de lichtsporen van de schoten door de donkere hemel flitsen. Later in de nacht is er nog wat gedoe op straat. Maar verder blijft het stil.
Maandag 31 januari
Vanmorgen op tijd de deur uit om wat voedsel in te slaan. In de locale supermarkten is het zeer druk. Brood is al helemaal niet meer te krijgen. Ook rijst en vlees zijn nauwelijks meer voorradig. De banken zijn voor de tweede achtereenvolgende dag gesloten. Dat houdt in dat ook pinautomaten niet meer worden bijgevuld.
Toch nog even een moment van ontspanning tijden een waterpijp en een kopje Turkse koffie op het terras van mijn buurt coffee shop.
Een ander probleem dat me meer en meer begint to opbreken is het gemis van het internet. Zo is het wel heel erg moeilijk om mijn sociale contacten, in het bijzonder met familie en vrienden en werk in Nederland te onderhouden. En de verwachting is dat we het nog minstens een week zonder internet zullen moeten stellen. Ook mijn vaste telefoonlijn ligt al 4 dagen plat. Een gevoel van isolement maakt zich langzaam van me meester. Gelukkig heb ik hier nog regelmatig contact met collega’s.
Kijk ’s avonds laat nog naar Pauw & Witteman. Kijk met enige verbazing naar een ‘gevluchte’ Nederlander en een Egyptisch-Nederlandse acteur Sabi (…nogiets). De laatste vertelt dat ‘ie liever bij zijn familie in Cairo zou zijn. Maar blijkbaar staat ‘ie toch liever veilig op een Nederlands toneel. Een ticket NAAR Cairo moet toch eenvoudig te bemachtigen te zijn…!
Dinsdag 1 februari
Vandaag de dag van de “Eén Miljoen Mensen Mars”. Het regime probeert betogers te belemmeren naar het centrum te komen. Het treinverkeer is helemaal stil gelegd en op de invalswegen hebben militairen blokkades opgeworpen.
Om 11 uur staan er al 10.000 mensen op het Tahrir plein. Niet alleen jongeren. Er zijn ook ouderen en zelfs hele gezinnen. Anderen dragen voedsel en water aan. Er is geen leiding. Maar men is één. Er heerst een buitengewoon uitgelaten sfeer.
En voor het eerst hebben ook pro-Mubarak demonstranten zich laten zien op het Tahrir plein. Ze scanderen: “Nee, tegen de verraders”, waarmee ze doelen op de massa’s die roepen om het onmiddellijke aftreden van Mubarak.
’s Avonds het grote moment: de toespraak van Mubarak. Hij beloofd te werken aan ingrijpende veranderingen, veiligheid, stabiliteit en zegt dat hij nooit van plan was om zich voor de komende verkiezingen herkiesbaar te stellen. Wat niet waar is. Hij zal het overgangsproces leiden en dus tot de verkiezingen aanblijven. Natuurlijk zijn de demonstranten op het Tharir plein teleurgesteld. Lang niet iedereen is blij met de ‘opstand van het volk’. Gewone mensen in de straat vertellen dat de demonstranten niet namens hen spreken. Zij maken zich meer zorgen om het dagelijks eten dan om de positie van Mubarak.
Woensdag 2 februari
Al vroeg KRO radio en Radio aan de lijn. Behalve voor de Egyptenaren is ook mijn leven in een week ingrijpend veranderd. Veel journalistiek werk. Omdat het internet al zes dagen plat ligt, moet ik mijn bijdragen voor de krant telefonisch doorgeven. Ach, dat heeft ook zo z’n charme.
Maak een vroege ochtend wandeling door mijn wijk en spreek met de mensen. Wat vinden zij van de situatie? Eigenlijk iedereen vindt dat het beter is als alles zo snel mogelijk weer normaal wordt. “Mubarak heeft toch aan bijna alle eisen toegegeven”, zegt een winkeleigenaar. Op de pleinen en bij het politiebureau hier in mijn wijk Maadi staan enkele tanks strategisch opgesteld.
Als ik op het Tharir plein aankom is de stemming bedrukt. Ik zit bij een groepje demonstranten die de nacht hebben doorgebracht op het plein. Ze bieden me een kop thee aan. Plotseling is er een groot rumoer aan de kant van het Egyptisch museum. Pro-Mubarak betogers drommen het plein op. Het slagveld dat dan ontstaat is inmiddels ge hele wereld over gegaan. Ik zag geen enkele reden de held uit te hangen en ben van het plein gevlucht, met het idee vanuit de zijstraten de ontwikkelingen te volgen. Een Deense journalist zegt dat we zo snel mogelijk weg moeten uit het centrum. “Er worden journalisten aangevallen”, zegt hij. Ik besluit naar huis te gaan en de ontwikkelingen vanuit daar te volgen. Bovendien gaat de avondklok weer in om vier uur.
Donderdag 3 februari
Ik heb nauwelijks kunnen slapen. Met stomme verbazing en woede heb ik de afgelopen avond en nacht zitten kijken naar wat zich op en rond Tahrir plein heeft afgespeeld. In zijn toespraak zei Mubarak de eisen van de demonstranten te respecteren. Maar ondertussen, zo wordt nu duidelijk, worden arme mensen en criminelen ingehuurd om de vreedzame demonstranten inelkaar geslagen. Een schandalige situatie.
In de loop van de dag krijg ik steeds meer telefoontjes van collega’s. Iedereen komt met hetzelfde verhaal. Journalisten en buitenlanders worden opgejaagd, gemolesteerd en camera’s worden afgenomen en kapot gemaakt. En waarom? Onderdeel van de intimidatie en falsificatie methoden van het regime. Het is de pers die met haar “overdreven aandacht voor de protesten ons land kapot maakt”, wordt gezegd op de Egyptische TV. Typerende manier van werken van dit soort regimes, zeker wanneer ze in het nauw komen. De anderen hebben het altijd gedaan. En zelf-kritiek staat niet in het woordenboek van brute dictators.
Vrijdag 4 februari
Afgelopen nacht zijn vijf Nederlandse journalisten door mensen van de Nederlandse Ambassade ontzet uit hun benarde situatie. Ze zaten min of min gevangen in hun hotel dicht bij het Tahrir plein. Meer verhalen doen inmiddels de ronde over collega’s die ernstig zijn bedreigd, ontvoerd en geslagen. Ook zijn er journalisten opgepakt en afgevoerd. Niemand weet waarheen.
Nu is het nog stil in de stad. Een vrijdagmorgen zolas iedere week. Maar nu al hangt over deze dag de doem van spanning en geweld. Na het middaggebed stromen net als volgende week de starten weer vol mensen. Velen zullen proberen op het Tahrir plein te komen. Het wordt de laatste krachtmeting met het regime.
Ik heb besloten de zorgen van familie en vrienden serieus te nemen en ga morgen een weekje naar Nederland. Ik ben moe. De afgelopen weken hebben hun sporen nagelaten. Maar ik vertrek met een dubbel gevoel. Opgelucht, maar ook gevoel van verraad: ik laat mijn Egyptische vrienden achter. Maar neem ze mee in mijn hart.
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